Cold Porcelain Clay – Week 2 of 8

I have to begin by apologizing for not getting this up on Saturday as promised.  My one arm wears out if I art to much and I got so into the clay that I overdid it (Oops!  I was having so much fun though…), unfortunately I ended up very sore and typing was not an option.  For that I am sorry.  I now have a young apprentice willing to give me a hand so that shouldn’t happen again.   Ok … lets do this!

Last week I made a version of the clay with elmer’s glue, cornstarch, olive oil and lemon juice.  (If you’d like to try it I linked to the original video in Week 1).  How did it measure up?  Here is what I thought of it.

COLD PORCELAIN RECIPE ONE RESULTS:

Ease of use:  This version of cold porcelain is very soft!  Unlike polymer it doesn’t need a warm up/conditioning time.

This is one of my favorite things about it.  I stopped using polymer in my hobbies due to the warm up time causing tenderness and soreness in my arm.  With cold porcelain you can pull off a piece and have fun right away!  This first batch was so soft I found it hard to do anything 3 dimensional.  It was not impossible but it did take a pretty lite touch.

Coloring:  Cold porcelain is simple to color and you have a variety of options.  Pastel Chalks, Acrylic Paint, Mica Powder, and Food Coloring are just a few of those options.  Because cold porcelain has a natural translucent color it is advantageous to add white to it first and then add your intended color.  The white will create a better base for the color to “pop”.  It also needs to be noted that cold porcelain darkens as it dries so your color will get much more intense.  Below photos of our colored clay both before and after drying.

Molding:  This batch is great for molding!  It is soft and easily forms into both simple and intricate molds.

 

The molds (even my silicone molds) needed a very thin layer of oil brushed into them so that the clay would release.  No big deal, that was not a hassle at all.  When you brush the oil in make sure not to let it “puddle up” so to speak.  It is much like the oil layer you’d brush onto a pan for baking.  You don’t want it to saturate into the clay, you only need it as a “mold release”.  If to much oil is present the clay will simply slide right out of the mold.  If you do get to much in the mold you can dab it out with a paper towel.

Durability:  Once it cures fully, this cold porcelain is very durable!

The curing process takes a couple of days for pieces only 1/8′ – 1/4′ thick and the time for curing goes up as the thickness of the piece increases.  The piece will dry from the outside in.  It is important not to constantly pick up and check your piece as this limits the opportunity to damage it before it is fully hardened.  How do I know?  I’m horribly impatient and managed to create cracks in a few pieces just because I couldn’t stop “manhandling” them.  It will shrink as it dries as shown in the photo below.

Cold Porcelain
An example of how much cold porcelain clay shrinks

Flexibility:  This recipe is not quite as flexible as I thought it would be.

The flexibility is not very important if you use this recipe for thicker things like molding, 3D sculpting and so on.  For projects like flowers the flexibility is more important since thin petals that are brittle will break easily.

This version rolls out very thin but as mentioned before, it is fairly brittle when it has hardened.  For petals that is less than appealing but if you are making a thin piece to overlay something else or to wrap over something thicker it is just fine.

I used teflon non stick sheets to roll it between.  They worked out very well for keeping the clay from sticking to anything as it was rolled out.  You could do the same with parchment or wax paper if you do not have non stick sheet.  You can purchase the teflon sheets I use from Amazon: Teflon Sheets

That’s it for this week’s chit chat about Cold Porcelain Clay!  See you Saturday evening for week 3!

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